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Mediterranean · Growing guide

Fig Tree: How to Grow and Care for Figs in the US

Grow a fig tree in zones 8–11, or a hardy variety in zones 5–7 with winter protection. Best varieties, planting, care, pruning and harvest for US gardens.

Juniper HalePublished Oct 24, 2026 · Updated Oct 24, 2026 · 8 min read
Ripe purple figs and one green unripe fig hanging among large lobed leaves on a fig tree
Photo: Kolforn, CC BY-SA 4.0

Yes, you can grow a fig tree in most of the US, but your winters decide how. In zones 8–11 a fig planted in the ground fruits reliably. In zones 5–7, grow a hardy variety such as Chicago Hardy: in a cold winter it dies back to the ground and regrows from the roots, or you can wrap it or keep it in a pot. Figs are an easy fruit tree. They want full sun and good drainage, and the common types need no second tree and no pollinator.

USDA zones
8–11 in ground · hardy types 5–10 · any zone in a pot
Sun
Full sun · 8+ hours ideal, 6 minimum
Water
Moderate
Difficulty
Easy
Lifecycle
Perennial
Origin
Middle East
Container friendly
Yes, in a pot 18 in (45 cm) wide or more
Time to fruit
1–3 yrs first figs · 3–4 yrs reliable crops
Cold limit
Dormant branches damaged near 15–20°F (−9 to −7°C)
Pollination
None needed for common types

Why grow a fig tree

Figs come from the Middle East and have been grown around the Mediterranean for a very long time. Italian immigrants carried their fig trees to the United States and developed the practice of trenching or burying them to get through cold winters (Penn State Extension), which is why you still find fig trees in backyards far north of the Mediterranean.

The best reason to grow your own is the fruit. Figs will not ripen once they are off the tree (Illinois Extension), and fresh ones keep only 2–3 days in the fridge (CRFG). That is why supermarket figs are so different from one picked ripe from your own tree and eaten the same day.

Fig varieties for US growers

Pick by winter first, flavor second. Cold hardiness decides whether a tree gives you figs every year or gets cut back to the ground, and the eye of the fruit decides whether it sours in humid weather. The table below uses extension and California Rare Fruit Growers descriptions.

VarietyBest forSizeFlavorEye / cold hardiness
Chicago HardyCold winters · zones 5–10 (Iowa State) · can fruit in year one10–15 ft tall, 9–12 ft wide; can be kept at 6 ftRipe fruit deep purple or brown, yields slightly to the touchMost cold-tolerant fig (Illinois)
Brown TurkeySoutheast and southern California · reported more cold hardy than many figsSmall, hardy, vigorous tree (CRFG)Medium, purplish brown, pinkish amber flesh, good flavor, best freshLight breba crop
CelesteHumid Southeast, Piedmont · fruit from early July in FloridaSmall, productive, hardy tree (CRFG)Small to medium, light violet to violet-brown, very sweet, usually driedClosed eye (UF) · Clemson notes it can drop fruit in hot weather
Black MissionAll-round pick (CRFG) · fruit summer to winter (UF)Very large tree; plant at maximum spacing (CRFG)Large, black-purple, reddish-pink flesh, fairly good tasteProlific brebas
KadotaHot, dry climates (CRFG)Upright; needs annual pruning to slow growth (CRFG)Medium-large, yellowish green, amber flesh, rich flavorOpen eye partly sealed with a honey-like substance (UF); CRFG says it resists souring
LSU PurpleLouisiana and the Gulf South · three crops a year (LSU)—Medium-small, glossy purple, amber-to-pink fleshClosed eye (UF)

Compare all six, including where each does best, in our fig varieties guide, or go straight to our two main pages: Chicago Hardy, the pick for cold winters, and Brown Turkey, the most popular fig in the southeastern US according to UF/IFAS.

Where to buy a fig tree

Buy a potted tree from a nursery in your own region, or from a plant sale run by your county extension office or a local fruit-growers club. Fig names are a mess. Clemson warns of considerable confusion over variety names, and the name “Brown Turkey” is used for different figs on the East and West Coasts, so a local nursery that sells what has been proven to grow near you is a safer bet than a random online listing. Check that the label gives the variety name, and ask whether the tree was grown in your zone.

Plant in spring after your last hard frost so the tree has a full warm season to settle in before its first winter. If you will grow it in a container, a fabric pot gives a fig’s roots air and drains well.

How to start a fig tree

For most gardeners the best route is a nursery plant. Here is how to get it off to a good start.

  1. Choose a variety for your winter. In zones 8–11 you can grow any fig in this guide. In zones 5–7 choose Chicago Hardy, or plan on a pot you can shelter.
  2. Buy a healthy, labeled plant. Look for a named variety and a firm, well-rooted plant with no wilting or dead tips.
  3. Plant after the last hard frost. Set it at the same depth it grew in its nursery pot, backfill, firm gently and water it in.
  4. Mulch and water. Spread mulch over the roots and keep the soil evenly moist while the tree establishes.
  5. Be patient. Expect a few figs in 1–3 years and reliable crops after 3–4 years (Clemson).
Cuttings are the classic way to multiply a fig. A cutting from a hardy fig that already grows in your neighborhood is a clone of a tree adapted to your winters, and friends and neighbors with fig trees are often happy to share. To root one yourself, take pencil-thick hardwood cuttings 6–10 in (15–25 cm) long from last year’s growth in late winter, while the tree is dormant, each with 3–4 buds. Push each cutting two-thirds of its length into moist, free-draining potting mix, keep it at 60–75°F (16–24°C) and just moist, and expect roots in about 4–8 weeks. Pot the new plants up in spring.

Planting a fig tree

In the ground. Figs perform best in full sun (UF/IFAS). Eight hours a day or more is ideal, and Clemson, Penn State and Iowa State all recommend at least 8, while LSU says at least 6. Choose a spot with well-drained soil. Penn State recommends slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.0–6.5. Give the tree room for its mature width: Chicago Hardy spreads 9–12 ft (2.7–3.7 m), and the California Rare Fruit Growers say to plant Black Mission at maximum spacing because it is a very large tree. A spot against a south- or west-facing wall gives extra warmth in cold zones.

Zones 5–7: plan to protect the tree. A hardy variety such as Chicago Hardy dies back to the ground in cold winters and regrows from the roots. You can leave it to do that, wrap it, bury it or grow it in a pot. Our guide to overwintering a fig tree walks through each method.

In a container. Penn State recommends large pots, at least 18 inches (45 cm) in diameter, filled with a sterile potting mix and compost or other organic matter. A pot lets you move the tree into shelter for winter in any zone. Our fig tree in a pot guide covers pot sizes, watering and pruning.

Fig tree care

Water

UF/IFAS says mature trees can take 20–50 gallons (76–190 L) per tree per week if there is no significant rain, and Clemson suggests about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week. Water young trees weekly in dry spells. A layer of mulch holds moisture. Potted trees dry out faster: water when the top inch (2.5 cm) of mix is dry.

Feed

UF/IFAS says figs typically need only light fertilization. The California Rare Fruit Growers give ½–1 lb (0.2–0.45 kg) of actual nitrogen per year, split into three or four applications from late winter to July. Stop by July, so that new growth can harden before winter.

Prune

For most US gardeners, prune in late winter before growth starts, and in warm zones also lightly after harvest. Sources disagree on timing: UF/IFAS and CRFG say after harvest, Clemson says winter. Prune lightly on varieties that bear a breba crop, because brebas form on last year’s wood.

Overwinter

Mulch the base 6–12 inches (15–30 cm) deep with leaves or straw. In cold zones wrap the dormant tree in breathable material such as burlap or row cover, never plastic. Move potted trees into an unheated garage or shed. Dormant branches are damaged near 15–20°F (−9 to −7°C).

Common figs need no pollination. UF/IFAS says the cultivars recommended for Florida belong to the common types and are parthenocarpic, meaning the fruit develops without pollination. One tree is enough, and no fig wasp is needed.

Know your two crops. The common fig bears a first crop, called the breba crop, in the spring on last season’s growth. The second crop is the main crop, borne in the fall on new growth (CRFG). If a hard winter kills the top of your tree, you lose the brebas but still get a main crop from the new shoots.

Common fig tree problems

DiseaseOrange-brown spots and early leaf dropFig rust. Rake up and bin fallen leaves in fall. Clemson says to spray copper only if rust returns every year. UF/IFAS gives a 5-5-50 Bordeaux spray (copper sulfate, lime and water) every two to three weeks from April to November for regular problems.FruitSour, fermented-smelling figsSouring, caused by insects entering the open eye of the fruit. Clemson says sprays do not control it and the only answer is to grow a tight- or closed-eye variety. LSU agrees that closed-eye varieties have fewer problems with souring.Fruit lossSplit, dropped or eaten figsRain during fruit development and ripening can split figs (CRFG). Birds, gophers, rabbits and squirrels eat fig roots and fruit (UF/IFAS), so net the tree and guard the roots in a pot or wire cage. Clemson lists several conditions that cause premature fruit drop.SoilA stunted tree with knotted rootsRoot-knot nematodes. Clemson says not to plant figs where root-knot nematodes are present. If a spot has a history of poor growth, ask your county extension office about testing, or use a pot with fresh mix.

Harvesting and eating figs

Pick figs only when they are fully ripe, because they will not ripen off the tree. Penn State gives four signs: the fig changes color, softens, its stem bends downward and the eye (the small opening at the bottom) opens. Fresh figs keep for only 2–3 days in the fridge (CRFG), so pick what you will eat. Wear gloves when you pick if the milky sap bothers your skin.

Learn the signs in how to tell if a fig is ripe, then see how to eat a fig for ways to use a good harvest. Want a fig in a smaller space? Read about a fig tree in a pot. For more fruit that likes dry summers and mild winters, browse the Mediterranean fruit section.

Frequently asked questions

How cold can a fig tree get?

UF/IFAS puts fully dormant trees at about 15–20°F (−9 to −7°C) before the branches are damaged, and the California Rare Fruit Growers put it at 12–15°F (−11 to −9°C). A tree in active growth can be hurt near 30°F (−1°C). The roots of hardy varieties survive much colder and resprout in spring.

Can I grow a fig tree in zone 5, 6 or 7?

Yes, with a hardy variety such as Chicago Hardy, which Iowa State lists for zones 5–10. In cold winters the top dies back to the ground and the tree regrows from the roots, or you can wrap it, bury it or grow it in a pot and shelter it. Iowa State notes that in zone 5a a fig may not always overwinter.

Do you need two fig trees to get fruit?

No. The common-type figs sold for US gardens are parthenocarpic, which means the fruit develops without pollination (UF/IFAS). You do not need a second tree, and you do not need a fig wasp.

How long does a fig tree take to fruit?

A nursery tree can set a few figs in 1–3 years, but Clemson says young figs may take 3–4 years before they bear reliable crops. Chicago Hardy can fruit in its first year, according to Illinois Extension.

When should I prune a fig tree?

For most US gardeners, prune in late winter before growth starts. In warm zones you can also lightly prune after harvest. UF/IFAS and the California Rare Fruit Growers recommend pruning after harvest, while Clemson recommends winter. Prune lightly on varieties that bear a breba crop, because brebas form on last year's wood.

Why are my figs sour or splitting?

Sour, fermented figs come from insects entering the open eye of the fruit. Clemson says the only control is to grow varieties with a tight or closed eye. Rain during fruit development and ripening can also split the fruit (CRFG).

Sources

  1. The Fig (HS27/MG214), UF/IFAS Extension
  2. Fig Fruit Facts, California Rare Fruit Growers
  3. Figs: How to Grow and Care for Figs in South Carolina, Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC
  4. Figs in the Home Garden, Penn State Extension
  5. Winterizing Your Fig Tree, Penn State Extension
  6. Go Figure: Figs Are a Great Addition to Home Gardens, University of Illinois Extension
  7. Growing Hardy Figs in Iowa, Iowa State University Extension
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